In our relationship with our dogs, realistically situations occur when it’s important that we can safely remove something that’s in their possession: either because it could be harmful or because it is valuable for us.
The problem is dogs, like every other species, take exception to surrendering a possession important to them to someone they don’t fully trust. They send a warning to whoever contests the possession, and socially normal dogs get buzz-off signals and…buzz off. Humans, not so much. People often force the issue. Partly because they are concerned about the dog’s safety. Valid, but still doesn’t change the fact that a dog forced to relinquish something valuable to him becomes more guarded in the future. He experienced that his group members are resource opponents and, at one point, possibly directly aggressively resists. Even if not, a dog whose possessions are consistently contested becomes resource anxious.
What to do? Simple! Teach your dog that he can trust you. Let her experience that giving is better than keeping.
The easiest how to is to watch UK behavior specialist Chirag Patel’s video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndTiVOCNY4M
If you insist on reading, here are options:
Nose out 10 material things your dog is interested in. A mixture of food, toys, chew items. 10 is a good rule of thumb, but not edged in stone. Establish a hierarchy, staggered from lowest to highest in value as perceived by your dog—keep in mind that that could vary.
Offer your dog a lower valued toy. Preferably a toy because you want your dog to hold on to it for a few moments. So a treat won’t work and a chewy or bone is typically higher on the value hierarchy.
Let your dog enjoy it for 15-20 seconds, then wave something in front of him he cares a little more about. That is important. Kibble in exchange for a bone is not going to work. Trade up. If you get it right, your dog will open his mouth to grab the better thing and that’s the exact moment when you attach your cue word: “drop it”. So here, again, we do capturing and reinforcing.
Repeat…and end the exercise with giving your dog something of higher value he can keep; something you do not have to contest because it is safe for your dog. A food toy works well, or if you are okay with raw a chicken foot, turkey neck, or ox tail.
If your dog is more excited about toys, have a special toy stored away. Retrieve and play with it while he has possession of another one you gave him. Focus on yours, toss it in the air, be animated, pretend you are having the time of your life. Chances are that your dog will want in on your game, and drops his toy. Again, as soon as he open his mouth attach your cue word, and then play with him with your toy for a good 3-5 minutes.
For toy motivated dogs who are also food hounds chase’n’grab is fun. Tug can work, but here is a variation of it.
Securely attach a toy to an about 8-feet-long rope and drag it behind you. Almost every dog’s interest is instantly keened when something is in motion, and he’ll try to catch it. Let him grab it but stop moving, and toss a treat out. Attach your cue as your dog releases the toy to pounce after the treat. Repeat….
Fast repetitive motion sequences are fun for a dog, and releasing the toy becomes doubly rewarding: he gets a piece of delectable food and a continuation of the interaction. He also experiences practices releasing when he is somewhat aroused. Once the behavior can be reliably cued you don’t need treats any longer—continuation of the game is the sole reinforcement. End the game with untying the toy and handing it to your dog to keep until he gets bored of it, then put it away till the next time.
If you identified your dog’s hierarchy of motivators correctly, practiced enough and with a variety of items, and established a consistent cue word, you should never be in the position to have to force something out of your dog’s mouth.
Teaching a solid “leave” also helps: being able to direct your dog away from something she shouldn’t have means you won’t have to take it away from her.
Until your cue/action combinations are in place, managed your dog and environment to prevent that he gets hold of something harmful or valuable to you.
However, life is life. Chances are your dog will be able to filch something he shouldn’t have. Then what? The not forcing the thing away from him rule still holds. Each time you do, you foster distrust and risk a bite. And think twice before you chase your dog. Running away with a possession can be a strong play chase invitation, and if you race after your dog you reinforce him for running away with something that belongs to you. Henceforth he’ll be on the lookout for the next thing he can pilfer when he wants to play chase.
Instead, do whatever you have to to make yourself interesting. Get his attention with a high-pitched excited voice and snappy body movements, go to the fridge and make a pretend sandwich and say out loud the words ham and cheese. Coax your dog to come to you, and then trade for something better than what he has. Don’t forget to add your cue word to the action. Reinforce generously. With ham and cheese.
If the pilfered item is something that won’t kill your dog or is irreplaceable for you, trade up and then hand the item back. A dog who lives in surplus paradise (all our dogs had a well-stocked toy box and Bowie’s disc you see in this photo was always accessible to him) as well as one who experiences that bringing you stuff doesn’t always mean that he loses it, and he gets something on top, will at one point trust to bring you even the most special thing. Our Will once showed me a dead baby hare and released it into my hand. The ultimate trust.
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